Landscapes Of Scotland: Glencoe

Glencoe's spring sky looked bleak; wrathful cloudsbreaking his conversation with an elderly gentleman
glared, threatening imminent showers. Columns ofon the opposite side of the bar.
light penetrated the cloud, stood as sentinels guarding"Heading for the village," I replied and grabbed the
entrance to the sweeping valley. The scent ofnearest chair to soothe my aching limbs. "Coke
springtime was in the air; a new harvest wasplease."
approaching.Refreshed and revitalised, I continued my trek along
Animals all around were preparing their nests for newthe forsaken road, twisting and turning with the
siblings and a busy summer. The echoes of songbirdscontours of the land.
and their merry tunes sang throughout the valley; theGlencoe's history can be traced back over 5,000
season of courtship was upon us.years. Perhaps most infamous was one macabre
A crisp breeze was a reminder of a recent winter;night during the early hours of 13th February 1692.
Glencoe was still adjusting to the new season. TheThe resurgence of the Jacobites worried King William
wind was the only sound of an otherwise silentthe Third and he ordered all clan chiefs to declare
valley.their allegiances no later than 1st January 1692.
Ahead, a small cluster of trees were dwarfed by theMaclain of Glencoe however was delayed and didn't
gargantuan mountainside rising steeply from the flat.sign until 6th January 1692. Unaware of the decision
Foliage managed to climb about a third of the wayto punish him and his men, Maclain returned to his
up the mountain face before conceding to theland believing all was well.
barefaced rock. It looked impossible to climb; theCampbell of Glenlyon led a group of 128 soldiers who
dominant face was almost vertical.stayed with the Macdonalds for 12 nights before
As the clouds began to clear, the cool, shallowmurdering 38 of them as they slept during the early
waters to my right reflected an ever changing sky.hours. Studying this tranquil landscape, it's hard to
The lake was fringed by marshland and navigable onlyimagine such a brutal event ever taking place.
by the local wildlife.Despite its barren appearance, the land is teeming
I continued my march along the lonely valley roadwith wildlife; nature accompanies my every step. In a
and soon encountered a public house, wonderfullyworld seemingly awash with terror and violence, it's
isolated from civilization. It was cast in shadow as thegood to know these places still exist. Away from the
sun hid behind the mountain peaks, threatening torigours of city life, Glencoe has evolved as nature
emerge and flood the valley with light.intended.
"Passing through?" enquired the barman politely,