Kisumu and Lake Victoria: the Lakeside Sunset Bliss

Situated on the shores of Africa's largest and theMau ranges. It is a delight to see the red-tailed
world's second largest freshwater lake after Lakecolobus monkeys and other animals of the wild.
Superior in the USA, Kisumu has one of the mostIf you prefer camping, the Kericho Fishing Lodge
breathtaking sunsets. On December 20, 1901, the lastnext door is ideal. It also has a restaurant and rooms.
sleeper of the famous Uganda Railway was nailed inDo not miss a short walk at the Chagaik Botanic
by Florence Preston, the wife of Ronald Perston, theGarden by the tree estate just before you enter
chief platelayer of the railway. The point, on theKericho town. A visit to Ruma National Park can be
shores of Lake Victoria was named Port Florence -very refreshing. Ruma can be reached through many
but was not after Florence Perston. It was namedcircuits; form Kericho via Kisii and then through the
after Florence Whitehouse, the wife of the chieffishing villages of Homa Bay and Kendu Bay. Or take
engineer, George Whitehouse.the ferry from Luanda (on the way to Bondo) to
The name Port Florence only stuck for a year andMbita Point. It is a welcome relief from the rough
reverted to Kisumu, which means 'a place to look forroads. At Mbita Point, stay at the Lake Victoria Safari
food.' A good starting point discovering the town isVillage on the lakeshore, a delightful, cheap lodge with
the Kisumu Museum on the Nairobi Highway. Thebeautiful gardens, and a strip of private beach and
main two-way traffic road, named after the famousboats.
'son of the lake' - the late Jaramogi Oginga Odinga -Ruma is the only park in the world with the
runs down the middle of the town. The road leads tosub-species of the roan antelope, the hippotragus
the Industrial Area and further down to the golfequinus langheldhi. There are fewer than 100
course and the airport.remaining. That should make you want to visit this
The port of Kisumu, off Kendu Road, is not set tohandkerchief of a park. You can camp or just visit
handle tourists, but it gives an interesting voyage intofor the day and return to Kisumu. Spend an extra
history. The original sleeper seems to be lostday to drive to Rusinga Island via the cause way and
somewhere on the grounds of the harbourvisit the hotspots, like the prehistoric site, home of
overlooking the beautiful Maragoli Hills, which are fullthe Zinjanthropus Nyanii, an apelike ancestor that
of granite rocks. The first steamships built in Kisumulived almost two million years ago in the forests that
in 1905 were the SS Sybila and the SS Nyanza. Inonce covered the island. Visit the Tom Mboya's
1907, the English political leader Winston Churchillmemorial or sail to the twin island of Mbasa,
visited Kisumu, the most important harbour in theuninhabited by people and full of monitor lizards, birds,
lake until the collapse of the East African Communitycrocodiles and snakes.
in 1977. Passenger services ceased in the early 1990s.There are many Luo villages along the bays like the
From the link span, you can see the Sunset Hotel,Uyoma Peninsular. Take the ferry from Luanda, past
which was built in the 1970s on the lakefront fromMaseno or the Luanda on the Homa Bay road. The
where guests can watch the sunset. It is a beautifulferry from Luanda to Mbita Point leaves at 8:00am,
view that a first time visitor should not miss. Next to11:00am, 3:00pm and 6:00pm. From Mbita Point to
the hotel is Impala Park, which houses the town'sLuanda it leaves at 7:00am, 10:00am, 2:00pm and
'original residents'-the remaining impalas and stray5:00pm. If you take the ferry from Mbita Point to
animals, including leopards and hyenas-in pens. HipposKisumu, stop at the spectacular rock formation of Kit
walk around at night. The park is a rich ground forMikayi, the sacred rock. Kit Mikayi means 'big woman'
birds like African fish eagle. A few metres away isin Luo. For a fee, one can climb the rock to see the
the Nyanza Club. The budget traveller can camp atwide expanse of luoland.
the Wildlife Clubs of Kenya grounds, within walkingIf you have a friend with a speedboat in Kisumu, sail
distance of Sunset and Nyanza Club.to Ndere Island. It's uninhabited by humans save for
The Kisumu Municipal Market, built in 1935 is aa translocated baboon, the rare semi-aquatic
must-see. Earthen pots and all the vegetables insitatunga antelope, monitor lizards, African fish eagles,
season are on display here. Moving out of town, apied kingfishers and the jeweled beauty of a bird, the
drive along the lakeshore takes you down themalachite kingfisher. You can also take the alternative
members-only Yacht Club, through the Impala Park toroute to Kisumu via Maai Mahiu through Narok to
Dunga. There is a restaurant and the local anglersSotik, and then to Kisii. From Sotik, you can turn right
might just lure you to a boat ride. The boats are notto Kericho/Kisumu. Alternatively, from Narok, drive
always fitted with lifesaving jackets, so you ride atinto the Masai Mara National Reserve and spend a
your own risk.couple driving to the western vistas. From Kisii, the
On the other side of the lake, roads lead toroad continues to Ruma.
Kakamega and on to Kakamega Forest, the onlyOn the islands of Rusinga, Mfangano and Takawiri are
remnant of the Guinea-Congolian rainforest that onceup market lodges. Your travel agent should be able
stretched across the entire expanse of Centralto book you in. or stay at the inexpensive lodges.
Africa. The forest is about 240 sq km and great forAnother circuit to explore is Kisumu to Eldoret, an
bird lovers and those who want a quiet retreat.easy two-hour drive, and the Kerio Valley viewpoint
Accommodation comes in the form of the Rondooverlooking Tugen Hills. The floor or Kerio Valley
Retreat under the Trinity Fellowship and the Isechenospans 2,000 feet below Lake Kamnarok in the Rimoi
Bandas for visitors who prefer camping orGame Reserve, which is frequented by elephants and
self-catering. There are many circuits to drive in andbuffaloes.
out of Kakamega Forest. You can drive out via theOne can drive across the valley to the Tugen Hills
gate that leads to Kapsabet and on to Nandi Hills andand combine this circuit with Lake Baringo, Bogoria or
Songhor, passing through the tea hill slopes to thethe Cherangany. The Flourspar Company is on the
sugarcane plains of Chemelil, Miwani and Kibos. Therefloor of the valley. The Kerio Valley Lodge is built on
are some fantastic sites around this route, like thethe escarpment. Not very far from Eldoret on this
South Nandi Forest, the prehistoric sites of Fortroute is the High Altitude Training Centre at Iten,
Ternan and Songhor, the high hilltop forest ofwhere Kenya's famous athletes like Peter Rono,
Tinderet, down to Koru and Muhoroni. Driving throughWilson Kipketer and others train.
the sugar belt of Kibos, you can visit a typical LuoFor a bit more adventure, drive further a field to
village at Kajulu. It is very picturesque and theLodwar, via Kitale, with a stopover at the Saiwa
surrounding hills are great for hiking. However, thereSwamp National Park. Lodwar is near the western
is no tourist facility in the vicinity.shores of Lake Turkana, which covers 77,000 sq km.
If you decide to break in Nandi town, drop in at onethis is the easiest road to Turkana. Trips to the
of the most beautiful golf courses in the country -central Island can be arranged and a night on the
Nandi Bear Club - where there are self-containedisland is out of this world. You sleep under the stars,
chalets. Nandi Bear is so named because of a storyas the only structure on the island is a tin toilet. In
about an elusive animal that looked like a bear thatLodwar, stay at the Catholic Guesthouse. Also, visit
used to come from the forest and kill the villagers. Inthe Ille Springs and Kalokal. A journey to the Mt Elgon
the 1950s, the manager of a tea estate in Nandi shotNational Park is as exciting as it is adventurous,
two animals that pretty much resembled bears. Theespecially to the elephant caves. Stay at the KWS
skeletons were sent to the Nairobi Museum but gotbungalows complete with kitchens and barbeque
lost. It is said that the animas could have been giantjikos.
forest hyenas. The myth remains. If you happen toEnjoy your visit to Kisumu. You can do so much from
be driving to Kisumu from Kericho, you can stay atthere. Kisumu has a mix of restaurants and even
the Kericho Tea Hotel, which was built in 1958 by theboasts a German one. So, eating out is not limited to
Brook Bond tea estate. The hotel has seen betterChinese and Indian. It is important to carry lots of
days but it is still a good choice overlooking the teainsect repellent because the lakeshore is a breeding
plantations and the Mau escarpments. Guides canground for mosquitoes. Kisumu is hot and humid but
take you for a walk on to the remaining tract ofthe nearby towns like Eldoret, Kitale, Kakamega and
rainforest left in the area, which extends from theNandi hills can be cold.